What Emma Did Next: Exploring... Helford via St Anthony In Meneage

Over the last five months I have explored most of The Lizard but I tend to forget how far across it stretches and how different the landscape is in other parts. I only rediscovered this by accident last week when I was following an interesting looking sign: It was a neon pink film crew sign but it ended up going into Bonython Gardens which was closed so I carried on going and ended up going through woodland like you never see on "my" part of The Lizard where nothing grows much over 18 inches!

I had a look in the guide-books and on the ordnance survey map and decided to explore St Anthony In Meneage. I thought I must have taken a wrong turning to the village as the approach was so very narrow. How services and deliveries get down there I have no idea with hardly any passing places either. As I came into the village it looked very pretty, with a sweet little jetty and foreshore and a pretty little church and... nothing else. However, there was the ever present pay-and-display. Minimum stay two hours for £3. For some stupid reason I duly paid to park in one of Cornwall's most expensive car-parks as I reasoned there must be more to the village than meets the eye. After ten minutes of admiring the, admittedly, very scenic and unspoiled outlook from the shore and realising that the only shop sold fishing tackle, Weird Fish clothing and lollies but little else I was back in the car again. Maybe I missed something?

As I was so near I decided to drive to Helford. Last time I was here it was low tide and hard to get an appreciation of the place. If Mousehole is the quintessentially chocolate box harbour town then this is the river equivalent. It is so perfect, so idyllic, it's as if an artist has painted a perfect riverside village. The guide book describes Helford as the haunt of the rich, famous and the retired!

I had hoped to have lunch at a cafe but ended up at The Shipwrights Arms. I hate going into pubs on my own but needs must and it ended up being a great (Hobson's) choice. The barman was very friendly and when I asked if their's was the only eatery in the village he explained that the tearooms had closed down. First their business rates were increased and then they were told they were responsible for maintaining the roof (the tea rooms was housed in a chapel) so they had no financial option but to close. The barman did point out the yacht club across the river. Was one allowed in I wondered? He explained that first they ask if you're a member. Then they ask whether you're a visiting yachtsman. Then, finally, and very grudgingly they let you in anyway. Having bonded by this time I ordered a yummy platter of Vicky's bread, olives, houmus and salsa and sat outside in the sunshine. I'd brought my kindle but why would you read when this vista is before you?